DESTINATIONS

DELHI

About the City :

Delhi is said to be one of the oldest existing cities in the world, along with Damascus and Varanasi. Legend estimates it to be over 5000 years old. Over the millennia, Delhi is said to have been built and destroyed 11 times. The oldest alleged incarnation of the city shows up in the Indian mythological epic Mahabharata as Indraprastha. The earliest historically recognized version of the city is:

Quila Rai Pithora - This dates back to the 10th century A.D. as per available historical records. Also earlier known as Rai Pithora, this city was created by Prithviraj Chauhan, the local hero famous for his resisting the marauding invaders from central Asia (Muhammad Ghori in particular). Chauhan's ancestors are said to have captured the city from the Tomar Rajputs who were credited with founding Delhi. Anangpal, a Tomar ruler possibly created the first known regular fort here called 'Lal Kot', which was taken over by Prithviraj and the city extended. Some of the ruins of the fort ramparts are still visible around Qutab Minar and Mehrauli

Mehrauli - Muhammad Ghori managed to defeat Prithviraj Chauhan in battle in 1192. Ghori left his slave Qutub-ud-din Aibak as his viceroy, who captured Delhi the subsequent year. After Ghori's death in 1206, Aibak proclaimed himself the ruler of Delhi and founded the slave dynasty. Qutb-ud-din contributed significantly in terms of architecture by getting Mehrauli built. His most prominent contribution is the starting of Qutab Minar. This 72.5m tall tower was built across three generations and finally completed in 1220 A.D. A visitor to the Qutab Minar could also see the mausoleum of Kaki, Shamsi Talao and some other mosques. The Slave dynasty ruled till 1290, among them was Razia Sultan who ruled for just three years, but became a historic figure for being the first empress in India.

• Siri

• Tughlakabad

• Firozabad

• Shergarh

• Shahjehabanad

• Lutyen's New Delhi

Red Fort

The Red Fort (Lal Qila) is one of Delhi's top tourist sights. A brilliant red sandstone fort built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (who also built Agra's Taj Mahal) as his ruling palace. Completed in 1648, the years since have not treated the buildings kindly: the rooms have long since been stripped of all objects, the marble inlays are long gone and quite a few buildings are off limits. Still, the scale remains imposing and the gardens are kept lush and green even in midwinter. Major buildings within include:

• Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar). True to the name, this is a covered bazaar between the gate and the fort itself, now filled with souvenir hawkers.

• Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). This building separates the outer court from the inner court, and has a marble platform for the emperor's throne.

• Hayat Baksh Bagh (Life-Bestowing Gardens). Once a grand garden of full of fountains and streams, now sadly all dry — only dry channels and acres of green grass remain.

• Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). Built completely of marble, this is where the emperor received special visitors.

• Khas Mahal (Private Palace). The Emperor's main residence. The octagonal Mussaman Burj tower looks out toward the Yamuna River, and is where the Emperor used to appear before the public for each morning.

• Rang Mahal (Colour Palace). The residence of the Sultan's main wife.

• Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel Palace). Contained six apartments for the Sultan's harem. Now used as a museum of court textiles, carpets, weapons, etc (free).

• Daawat Khana. A minor palace at the northmost end of the Fort, this was originally the residence of a prince, but it was converted into a tea house by the British, a function it continues today. Basic meals go for around Rs. 60, drinks Rs. 10-20, and it also has the cleanest toilets around.

• Swatantra Sangrama Sangrahalaya (Museum of the Independence Movement). To the left after the Chatta Chowk, this is a reasonably well-presented museum on the history of independence activism in India, starting from the Mutiny of 1857 all the way to Gandhi.

The only open entrance is Lahore Gate, on the west side. Security in and around the Fort is very heavy, as it was the scene of a terrorist attack in 2000 that killed three people; bags are allowed, but they'll be X-rayed and you'll be patted down. Tickets cost Rs 10/100 for Indians/foreigners, photography free, video cameras Rs. 25 extra. Open sunrise to sunset daily except Monday. Allow for 3-4 hours in your schedule in case of long weekends and national holidays as lot of tourists flock around there. The most scenic way of reaching the fort is to take the Metro to Chawri Bazaar and then a cycle-rickshaw through the incredibly packed bazaar to the Fort (price negotiable, aim for Rs. 20).

The fort has a light and sound show (Rs.30) in the evenings between 7:30 P.M. and 9.00 PM depending on the season.

Be careful buying tickets at the booth, as the ticket sellers here often attempt to shortchange tourists.

Humayun's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb in south Delhi, near Hazrat Nizamuddin station, is one of Delhi's two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Open daily from sunrise to sunset, entry is Rs.10/250 Indians/foreigners.

The tomb is located in large, immaculately maintained gardens in the Persian Char Bagh (four corners) style that were thoroughly renovated in 2003 with the Aga Khan's help and are consequently probably the best in Delhi. As you enter the complex, the first major structure on your right is the bulbous, octagonal tomb of Iza Khan, a court noble who built it in his own lifetime, some 20 years before Humayun's tomb. As you pass through the first gate, you will glimpse the dome of the tomb and enter a floral path leading to the second (West) gate, which now acts as the entrance to the giant central garden.

The centerpiece is the eponymous tomb of Humayun, the second Mughal emperor. Built starting in 1562, it was the first major Mughal structure in the city and has been described as a predecessor or prototype of Agra's Taj Mahal. The structures are, indeed, stylistically similar, although Humayun's Tomb is built from red sandstone, not white marble, and was built by a wife grieving for her husband, not the other way around. You can climb up to the second level (the stairs on the west side are very steep, those on the south side less so), and on the south side you will find the entrance into the main crypt where Humayun is buried.

Before you leave, be sure to visit the South Gate, the original royal entrance, from where you can get picture-postcard views without too many tourists in the way. In the southeast corner is the Barber's Tomb, also built in the same style, but regarding which very little is known.

Qutb Complex

This complex in Mehrauli, south Delhi, houses structures dating from the Slave Dynasty (1206-1290) and is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The gardens are kept in excellent shape, making this a popular relaxation and picnic spot. Open daily from sunrise to sunset, entry is Rs.20/250 Indians/foreigners. Light-and-sound show held most nights after sunset.

• Qutub Minar. The most famous structure on grounds, this 72.5m minaret was the tallest "skyscraper" in the world when built (1193-1368) on the orders of Qutb-ud-din Aybak. Delicately carved, it has been astonishingly well preserved and is still an awe-inspiring sight today — it's often visible from air when flying into IGI airport! (Sticklers for archaeological truth will, however, note that the top of the tower has twice been rebuilt after an earthquake, and the base has been restored more recently.) While entry into the tower itself is no longer permitted, for Rs.10 per 5 min you can view the scenery via a little webcam on top.

• Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque. Delhi's first and grandest mosque, now mostly in ruins, but many parts of the complex are still standing and the sandstone decorations are still impressive. Check out the extraordinarily ornate carvings near the tomb of Iltutmish on the west side of the complex.

• Iron Pillar, in the center of the mosque. True to its name, this is a seven-meter iron pillar erected c. 400 AD by Chandragupta II Vikramaditya, also known as "he, by the breezes of whose prowess the southern ocean is even still perfumed" according to the inscription carved on the base. Alas, Chandragupta II's perfume has long since faded, but to the amazement of metallurgists everywhere his pillar is still going strong after 1600 years.

• Ala-i-Minar. Ala-ud-din-Khilji set out to build a tower twice as high as the Qutub Minar, but died after a mere 24.5m was complete. The first story stands to this day.

• Ala-i-Darwaza. Square, domed building that once acted as the entrance to the mosque, but is now tucked away behind the minar. Inlaid marble decorations and latticed stone screens.

• Tomb of Imam Zamin. Outside the main complex, next to the Ala-i-Darzawa, this octagonal tomb commemorates a Turkestani iman who was based in the mosque during the reign of Sikandar Lodi.

Monuments

• Rajpath. A main parade route that leads to the President's residence (Rashtrapati Bhavan). Wide avenue, the splendid India Gate, and many grassy lawns. Especially nice in the evenings and at night when the buildings are lit, and the vendors come out to supply the many picnicking families.

• Rajghat Memorial of Mahatma Gandhi - check for closure dates/security checks around national holidays/gandhiji's death anniversary (30th Jan).

• Lodi Estate

• Nehru House 'Teen Murti Bhavan'. The house of the first Prime Minister of India. Only for people interested in politics. Free entrance.

• India Gate. This monument has been built as a memorial for the Indian soldiers who died in World War One. There is also a fire ("eternal flame") burning for all fallen Indian soldiers.

• Parliament House

Parks and Gardens

• Lodhi Garden - a peaceful park in the heart of New Delhi, Lodhi garden is ideal for mornings walks in the hot season and for afternoon strolls and picnics during the cooler months

• Nehru Park - a large park in the South Delhi neighborhood of Chankayapuri

Museums

• India Habitat Center, Lodhi Road,  (+91 (0) 11 2468 2001  (thru 2009), Most noted for its ever-changing art exhibits, plays and film shows, as well as an international selection of food items in its food court.

• International Doll's Museum, Nehru House, 4 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. ( +91 (0) 11 2331 6970 (thru 6974), Tue-Sun 10-6. A museum of dolls from all over the country. You get to see the costumes and art from all over India, as well as some nice craftsmanship. Rs 10.

• National Museum, Janpath, [9]. The layout is labyrinthine and the presentation won't win any awards, but the collection is unparalleled and contains some true masterpieces. Keep an eye out for the 4600-year-old Harappan temple dancer, the Gandhara-era standing Buddha with Greek hair and a Roman toga, the stunning miniature painting gallery, and the giant temple chariot parked outside. Entry Rs. 300 for foreigners (includes useful audioguide), Rs. 10 Indians (optional audioguide Rs.150 extra), plus Rs. 300 if you want to use a camera. Decent restaurant on the 2nd floor (lunch buffet Rs.100). Open Tue-Sun 10 AM-5 PM.

• National Railway Museum houses a collection of Indian trains from the past to the present - a worthwhile look into India's proud railway heritage.

• Teen Murti Bhavan former residence of India's first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, now a museum of his life.

• Tibet House, 1 Institutional Area, Lodhi Road, +91 (0) 11 4611 515. thouse@nde.vsnl.net.in. Established by HH Dalai Lama with the aim of preserving the cultural heritage of Tibet. There is a museum, exhibition space and library.

Religious buildings

• Bahá'í Lotus Temple, Kalkaji, South Delhi, [10]. Shaped like a lotus bud with 27 petals, this stunning temple suspended above milky-blue ponds is surely one of the magnificent monuments ever made from concrete -- but there is very little to see inside. The lush park around is well landscaped but mostly off-limits. Free entry. Open Tue-Sun (9.00 AM-7.00 PM) summer, (9.00 AM-5:30 PM) winter.

• Chhattarpur Mandir Huge & beautiful temple complex with a big surrounding campus - located near Mehrauli area of South Delhi.

• ISKCON (Hare Krishna) temple, at East of Kailash. Centre for Krishna Consciousness, it has robotic shows and multimedia presentations, apart from the traditional temple complex. Lively atmosphere and excellent tasting sweets - and the delicious Govinda's restaurant on site.

• Jama Masjid, opposite the Red fort, next to Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi (Metro: Chawri Bazaar). The largest mosque in India and a must-see while in Delhi. Entry is free, but use of a camera (still or video) costs Rs.200. The climb up into the minaret is steep, dark and somewhat claustrophobic, but is worth the extra Rs.20 for the great views over the complex and the city around it. You'll need to cover up your shoulders and legs (scarfs and lungis available for rental), and take off your shoes — either carry them with out or leave them with the gatekeeper, who'll ask for some money when you collect (Rs.5 is more than enough). Open from 7 AM to sunset, but note that tourists are not allowed in between 12:15 and 1:45 PM and pictures should not be taken during prayer hours.

• Lakshmi Narayan Temple or popularly known as Birla Mandir, located next to Connaught Place, is a big Hindu temple complex. Closest Metro - Rajiv Chowk (Yellow Line)

• Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple, off National Highway 24, East Delhi, [11]. Completed only in 2005 by the controversial spiritual organization BAPS, no expense has been spared in decorating this large and elaborate temple carved of red sandstone. The central monument, built without any steel, houses an 11-ft golden statue of the founder of the Swaminarayan faith, Bhagwan Swaminarayan. The Premvati food court on grounds serves up fast, cheap, huge but mediocre portions of vegetarian food (Rs. 75 for a thali). Note that there is a strict ban on all electronic items, cameras, tobacco and pretty much everything except the clothes on your back; you can leave your worldly belongings in the cloakroom outside. Free entry, guide booklet Rs.5, access to multimedia exhibitions Rs.125. (Very interesting and allow for 3-4 hours to check out the entire complex and exhibitions). Open Tue-Sun 9 AM-7 PM.

Other

• Majnu ka Tilla Tibetan Colony. One of the more accessible Tibetan resettlement areas in India, and certainly a nice piece of variety for Delhi; to get there head north along Ring Road just past Majnu ka Tilla Gurudwara, or take the Metro to Vidhan Sabha station, and a cycle-rickshaw is Rs 15 from there.

How to Get There

By plane

Indira Gandhi International Airport (IGI, IATA: DEL) [2] is the arrival point for many visitors into Delhi. The airport has a terrible reputation, long well-deserved, but it has improved considerably since it was taken over by an international consortium and, for example, it's now possible to enter the toilets without a gas mask. Most terminals have basic facilities like money changing and restaurants, but the major problem remains overcrowding — during the peak hours (middle of the night for int'l flights, early morning for domestic), it can be tough to find a patch of floor to sit on, never mind a seat.

The airport is split into three terminals, with the domestic terminals 1A and 1B commonly known as Palam Airport.

• Terminal 1A (Domestic): Indian and Kingfisher

• Terminal 1B (Domestic): All other domestic flights (except Air India)

• Terminal 2 (International): All international flights and Air India domestic flights

Terminals 1A and 1B are fairly close (around 0.5kms), but both are a long way from Terminal 2 and you should reserve at least three hours to connect. If you are making connections, it can take between 15 and 30 minutes once you exit one terminal to get to the other one by car, depending on time of day and traffic. There is supposed to be a free shuttle bus between T1 and T2, but it runs only once per hour. (On the upside, it crosses through the airport, and can be much faster than detouring on the congested roads outside like taxis do.)

Security at the airport is tight, so you should show up at least two hours before your flight is schduled, even though nearly all flights are delayed for several hours or more. In Terminal 2, carry-on is limited to one (1) bag and all hold baggage must be X-rayed and sealed before check-in. Note that all lounges and tax-free shops are between immigration and the final security check: once you pass the final check, there is no way back and nothing to do, so plan accordingly.

The easiest and safest way to get from the airport to the city is to arrange transport ahead of time from your hotel (some hotels provide this service for free). Alternatively, reserve a taxi from the prepaid taxi booths in the international terminal (it is advised to to check your change). Then, go straight through the airport and turn right immediately outside the front doors. Here you are assigned a cab number. There are several options, but the booth operated by the "Delhi Police" is considered the best, with non-A/C taxis to most points in the city Rs.200-300. Some good-humored visitors find that being shortchanged by the police is actually an excellent introduction to what they can expect during the rest of their visit to Delhi. If you don't view it this way, however, try to appear familiar with the currency, carefully count out your payment ad your change, and do not use a large bill.

Do not give the receipt to the driver until you get to the destination as this what they are paid on. Also, ignore any explanation the driver offers at the destination to explain why he requires additional payment. Take your baggage first, then give the driver the receipt and walk away without further discussion. It is also possible to take a city bus during the day, or a private one run 24 hours a day. As everywhere in India, ignore taxi touts!

During the winter (Dec-Jan), Delhi often experiences dense fog and visibility is reduced considerably, making it difficult for flights to land and take off. Often there are diversion of flights or cancellation- for both International and Domestic flights. Plan your flights accordingly and allow for 1-2 days of possible delays.

By bus

Buses arrive from Kathmandu and Chitwan in Nepal (36+ hours) and virtually every city in India. Not as comfortable as the trains, buses are the only choice for some destinations, mainly those in the mountains.

Delhi has a confusing slew of inter-state bus termini (ISBT), which all have two names to boot. The Delhi Transport Corporation [3] is the major operator, but every state also runs its own buses and there are some private operators too.

• Kashmere Gate ISBT (aka Maharana Pratap), Metro: Kashmere Gate. This is "the" ISBT and the largest of the lot. Buses to points north, including Nepal.

• Sarai Kale Khan ISBT (aka Vir Hakikat Rai), next to Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station. Buses to points south.

• Anand Vihar ISBT (aka Swami Vivekanand), on the east bank of Yamuna. Buses to points east.

By train

Trains arrive at one of three main stations-- Delhi Junction, also called Old Delhi or Purani Dilli, the second at New Delhi which lies in Central Delhi, and one at Hazrat Nizamuddin a few kilometers to the south. Delhi Junction and New Delhi Railway Station are now conveniently connected by Metro Line 2, just minutes apart. It will take around 40 minutes to an hour to travel from the New Delhi Railway Station to the airport by car, depending on traffic.

New Delhi Railway Station

The main entrance to New Delhi Railway Station (NDLS) is located just outside of Paharganj, the backpacker ghetto. The Delhi Metro now connects directly here, but the metro exits are on the "wrong" (Ajmeri Gate) side near platform 12. You can also take prepaid rickshaws and taxis from the plaza outside the main entrance.

The station is large, crowded, confusing and packed with touts, so allow one hour (yes, really) to find your train the first time you visit. Don't trust the electronic display boards, which often show incorrect information, instead listen to the announcements and ask multiple people in uniform until you find your train. However, anyone, in uniform or not, who approaches you spontaneously should be ignored.

A tourist ticket office called the International Tourist Bureau is open during office hours, upstairs of the main New Delhi railway station. Ignore touts who will try to convince you that it has moved or is closed. Note that it is only for foreign tourists, so you must have a tourist visa (i.e. student and working visas are not acceptable). Bring your passport and cash or traveller's cheques in US dollars, British Pounds or Euros. If you wish to pay in Indian rupees you must show an official exchange certificate (from India, not valid if you changed in another country) or an ATM receipt. To get a ticket, first get a form from the centre of the room, and fill it out. Then go to the information desk near the entrance. There, have the clerk check the availability of the train(s) you desire, and fill out your form accordingly. Then line up at one of the two u-shaped lines of chairs for the reservation desks.

Delhi Railway Station

Formally Delhi Junction (DLI), but best referred to as "Old" Delhi Station for clarity. Like New Delhi RS, this station is huge and confusing: the platforms are not in linear order, with some hidden in the west and east wings of the stations. The railway station is served by Metro Line 2 Chandni Chowk station.
 

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